Thursday, November 1, 2007

The Scout

So, after a whole year of relying solely on our bikes and our own power to get around (as well as public transportation here and there), we finally gave in and bought a car! Something about the thought of mountain sports beckoning us to haul around bikes, backcountry skis, and backpacking gear made us decide it was time. Don't get us wrong ... public transportation in Switzerland is wonderful and we still plan to take great advantage of it, but for our lifestyle in the Alps, one car seemed to be a really good fit.

The car-shopping experience was interesting here... We didn't realize how much we were used to the "instant gratification" system in the U.S., where you are inevitably asked by the car salesman: "What can I do to help you drive away in a new car today??" Here you must have muuuuuuuch more patience and an understanding of no pressure sales techniques! The cars on the lot are not actually available. It takes at least 2-3 weeks, often as much as 3 months, to actually get your car delivered to the dealer ... and then you have to wait 7 more days from delivery until you can pick it up from the dealer. This system definitely diminishes the opportunity for "impulse" purchases!

Another interesting thing was with the test drive - we are used to having the salesman ride in the car with us, or at least to record our personal information and make a copy of our driver's license before we drive off in their car... Well not here. The dealer gave us the key with no questions asked and no licenses copied. He actually asked if we had a driver's license and when Jeff said 'yes' and started to hand it over, he said "no, no, just show me when you get back." The only trace we left at the dealership was the set of commuter bikes we rode to get there! Now that's some kind of trust.

Anyway, we finally decided on an all-wheel drive Skoda Scout - a blend of a wagon (popular in the Alps for carting around bikes and skis) and an SUV (which despite the ubiquitous Porsche Cayenne in Zürich is a big symbol in Switzerland of environmental-unfriendliness). Hopefully we found a perfect blend that will safely get us to the best backcountry skiing spots when the powder is dumping, but with a smaller environmental footprint!

Here's Jeff and the new car!:

We immediately put our new car to use by filling it with some new purchases... This recliner would have been quite a challenge to bring home on a bike...

Then it was time to take Scout out on its first excursion to the mountains...

Proud new owner...

A great way to get to those remote hiking trails!

Click here to see more pics.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Inferno Race Report: Part 1 - Pre-race

At this point I've yet to sign up for a race that takes as long to complete as my post-race reports do! So, without further ado, I bring you my Inferno race report!

For new readers, the Inferno is an ultra-distance multi-sport race in the Swiss Alps. For more background, please most posts on selecting the event, training for a mountain race in the Netherlands, and the final beckon.

August 17, 2007:

Race Day Eve was full of that typical pre-race air of confusion, stress, and anxiety -- with me sometimes feeling like a bull ready to burst out of the rodeo gate, tearing a destructive path up the Schilthorn and other times falling into a zen-like state of tranquility, quietness, and deep reflection. The night before, Becky and I had a conversation about how senseless it was to sign up for a race like this right in the middle of an international move, with a very heavy workload, and with a less-than-fitting flat terrain as my training ground. We concluded that yes, it was senseless ... it stressed both of us ... and it was far from logical. I concluded that its senselessness somehow made sense to me in that it was so senseless, that it was the exact way I wanted to start my courtship of the Alps, and that I had sacrificed too much of myself to prepare for the race to start having regrets. I'm sure that Becky's final conclusion was that her husband is often nuts.

Realizing that there was no turning back and that senselessness was water under the bridge at this point, we drove our rental car around the lakes near Interlaken and up the Lauterbrunnen valley to set up my gear in the three transition zones. During our drive, I discovered Swiss speed control cameras, so my first race picture isn't Jeff in a wetsuit at the swim start, but Jeff and Becky in a rented Audi speeding between transition areas!


I think that my American friends will especially appreciate my confusion at T1 (the Swim-to-road bike transition area). As a walked down to this area, I kept looking for the changing tent. In all the long distance triathlons I've done in the States, there is a big tent (one for women, one for men) where you run into, strip off your swim clothes, and suit up in your bike clothes. At the Inferno T1 I could only see rows of bike racks. Concluding that they must be waiting until the morning to setup the changing tent, I dropped my bag of bike clothes beside my now-racked bike and set off for T2 in the picturesque village of Grindelvald. We'll revisit this one later.Setting up T2 and T3 proved uneventful, except for the stunning scenery that continued to pierce my psyche and fill me with wave after wave of chill bumps. Yes, mountains touch my soul.
With a collection of gear and my two favorite bikes distributed around the Bernese Oberland region, we set off on the gondola ride up to the car-free village of Mürren, a town that hangs on a cliff edge with an in-your-face view of three of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps: Jungfrau, Mönch, and the famous mountaineering peak, the Eiger. (In English, virgin, monk, and ogre/monster.) The one and only time that I had visited Mürren was on a training run a month before the race. I remember running though town the first time thinking that this is the story-book Alp I had seen in photos but didn't believe could possibly exist: a small village of traditional chalets, covered with flower boxes and overlooking snow-capped peaks.
We made our way to the pre-race meeting, which we learned was to be given entirely in German. I was the only American doing the full race and one of only a handful of native English speakers. So, as the race director presented I laughed along when the crowd laughed, looked serious when others looked serious, and tried to appear analytical during times like the weather presentation -- which appeared to be the most detailed and technical meteorological pre-race briefing ever. Having lived in Switzerland for one week by that point and having never studied German, I had more than a few gaps in my understanding of this pre-race meeting. In short, my rough translation was that at some point I would encounter a large bus, which was being pushed up a hill by a motorcycle that was exactly 10 meters behind it. When that happened I was supposed to raise a French Horn and blow it, while listening to an ipod. Then the protocol was apparently to jump off the hillside and laugh while covering my ears. I know that the Swiss have lots of rules, but this one seemed a little excessive and I thought that I may need to record it on an index card, lest I forget an important step and find myself disqualified from the race because I blew the horn when the motorcycle was only 8 meters behind the bus and with my ipod on shuffle mode instead of playing a podcast on weather forecasting.

Following the meeting, I went to the English Q&A session because I really needed to understand how that motorcycle was supposed to push the bus and what I needed to do to get a French horn. At this enlightening Q&A, I learned that my translation skills were somehow far off of target and I also met a fellow English speaker from the UK. Becky and I joined David and his wife for dinner, where we enjoyed and admired his stories of racing with nearly 30 years of additional wisdom than me!

Retiring to our room, I was happy that I had learned of a bag-drop for cold weather clothes in Mürren. We heard that the temps on the Schilthorn were predicted to be around 0C/32F, so I had stashed an extra shirt, cap, and gloves at this stop along the run course. Thinking that the last exposed part of the run course in freezing temps and wind could be, well ... interesting to say the least, I drifted off to sleep before 10.

3AM arrived and soon we were groggily joined by other Inferno people at the hotel restaurant for a special breakfast. Following my now daily muesli and yogurt, we took the gondola back to Stechelberg and joined our fellow athletes and partners on a sleepy bus ride to the start town of Thun. It was at this point that I entered my pre-race zen mode. Nervousness left my body and I became very quiet and very centered. I suited up in my long-sleeved wet suit, which I hadn't worn since the 1997 Ironman Canada race and hoped that it wouldn't fall apart during the race. It had several cuts that were starting to spread open, nearly exposing skin. Just last for one more race, that's all I ask!
Minutes before the race started I escaped to a quiet place on the shore for a final bit of yoga and meditation -- facing the Schilthorn, thinking of the people who are the closest to me, and asking the mountains and valleys for safe and happy passage. I exited warrior pose, offered my namaste and a slight bow to the mountains and the lake, and entered the water.

To be continued ...

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Converted!

The conversion from roadie to MTB'er is complete! Ok, maybe not totally yet, since I don't actually have any real MTB skills to speak of (details, details)... But now at least I've got the dual-suspension setup and nice fat tires...
The "new addition to the family" came from an online German company, and first impressions are that the attention to detail is superb (we knew we could count on the Germans to be precise! see here for more pics).

It's much too shiny though - Time to get it dirty. Our Zurich friend Martina immediately put together the plan for a MTB day in the Swiss hills. We met on the train and traveled to Unteraegeri, where we then hopped on a bus (which had hooks on the back for bikes). Eventually we were off under our own pedal power. The morning started out a bit foggy...
The climb up to Wildspitz was mostly on a paved path and went on for a couple hours...during which the whole time I'm thinking - what goes up must come down - How in the world am I, the total newbie that I am, actually going to descend this whole distance on a trail??!

Jeff doesn't seem concerned at all himself, as we stop at the top for lunch. A nice typical German meal of bratwurst and kartofelsalat is a great idea to fill the stomach with before tackling the singletrack, right?
We made some new Swiss friends along the way (see the two on the left below). Nobody told me we needed to bring full-body armor though! Guess I'd at least better fasten my helmet strap...

Martina was a fantastic coach for me as I tried to put aside my fears and realize that it's okay for the bike to bounce up and down and all around as if it has a mind of its own. "Look where you want to go"..."Let off the brakes a little"... Easier said than done! She was very, very patient with me as I bobbled down the trail, and so was Jeff who in his infinite wisdom knew that even when your spouse can also provide coaching, sometimes it's better to just smile and offer encouragement :) ...
Pretty soon I was getting used to being jarred all around, and saw that you actually can ride through a bunch of rocks without having to avoid them (this is a new concept after years of road-riding where you point out every little pebble). Eventually I even started to enjoy it (I think I'm even smiling in this picture, or is it just that I'm gritting my teeth)...

Toward the end it smoothed out enough that I could catch my breath and enjoy the views. Or was it just that I got more used to being bounced all around? Hey, this isn't so bad after all! What fun, to combine the thrill of cycling and play in the woods at the same time! Woohoooooooo!!

Cheers from a newly-addicted MTBer wannabe!!
-Becky

(Click here for more pics)

Monday, October 8, 2007

By the way...

In case you didn't already notice, you can now see the final Top Five favorite things about living in Amsterdam (the blog is post-dated to keep it in chronological order). Sorry for the delay - I guess there were just a few "distractions" the past couple months :)

Enjoy!

Thursday, October 4, 2007

Hills AND chocolate? Even better!

Today as I was jogging along one of the many local “Wanderwegs” (walking trails), enjoying the sunshine, fresh air, and green scenery all around, I realized that there was a distinct chocolate aroma wafting through the air. Mmmmm... chooooocolaaaaaate... All the sudden I’m craving some of that yummy Swiss specialty. Must be coming from the Lindt factory which is just down the street. It stimulated another sense and was just one more thing that made me say “Wow! This place is magical.” Maybe it’s just that everything is new and different, and the excitement may wear off eventually, but for now Jeff and I are both amazed by things here every day. So we thought we’d share a little more (in case you’re not already motivated to come visit just to see us!)...

We never realized how beautiful of a setting Zurich has. Extending from the city center are many small villages which border the huge Lake Zurich. Conveniently there is a hill that rises up on either side of the lake, so everyone can have a chance to enjoy a view of the lake...


...and of course of the mountains in the distance...

As we always heard, everything is clean and well-kept (cleanliness is next to godliness for the Swiss), and there are flower boxes full of geraniums in every window (except ours, guess I need to catch up!)...

and big green pastures with cows, and more flowers...

We are only 10 minutes outside of Zurich, but yet the area feels very rural. There are cows right outside our bedroom window...

and a neighborhood orchard selling fresh apples and other fruits, as well as sunflowers...

Bells from church towers echo all around… and cow bells ring in the nearby fields… The sounds just add to the magical feeling.

The Swiss are keen on walking (usually with poles so the upper body gets worked out too), and it shows with all the Wanderwegs all around – Here’s one we take regularly from our village back to our apartment...

Walking up those hills must be how they stay thin with all the chocolate they eat here. Jeff has been having chocolate cereal every day and has still lost weight! Well, we always heard chocolate was good for you. Even Special K has chocolate pieces in it...

Speaking of hills :) , the hills here in Zurich are steeper than we expected. The grade right out of our driveway is 15%! (we asked for it didn’t we)

Those hills keep it interesting when bringing home the groceries on the bike, but I think of it as my “secret” training... Now I wouldn’t feel complete biking up a hill without my basket full of wine and swiss cheese (so next time we ride in the Gaps we can have a swiss picnic at the top!)...

We hope this has given you a taste of our life here so far. Of course not everything is perfect, and there are new and different challenges every day, so we will share more of that soon too. Till then, we just wanted to share some of the pleasant things here. The only thing that could make it better is to have our family and friends here with us!

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Namasté from Zürich

Such a beautiful morning in Zürich today -- Crisp, fresh air, birds chirping & cows mooing, cool breeze, warm sunshine rising over the lake, the Alps beckoning in the not-so-distant distance ("come play on my hillsides again soon")... The sun shines directly at our apartment in the morning this time of year, so some sun salutations seemed appropriate...

Jeff, enjoying some coffee after a morning jog in the nearby forests, was revved up and ready to go to work...


We hope you can take some time to enjoy some of life's little pleasures today too!

Namasté,
Becky & Jeff

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Plans, schmlans

Isn’t it funny how sometimes the best experiences are those that weren’t planned? That was definitely our experience last weekend. We had made all our plans around biking up a certain mountain pass in Italy called “Stelvio”, since we were lucky to get “insider information” from friends in Atlanta that the road was closed to cars on Saturday (how they know this from so far away we will never know!).

So we rented a car (since we still don’t own one, and even though we’re close relatively, Italy would be a bit far to bike to from here!), packed it full with the usual cycling paraphernalia, and headed out Saturday morning… Ok, actually it was more like noon by the time we got out (change to plans #1!).

This was our first trip using TomTom navigating system, and we are already addicted – Can’t go anywhere without good ol’ TT now! The funny thing about TT is that sometimes it can lead you to a mode of transport you might not expect – Like a ferry. This was the case for us – not a water-ferry, but a train-ferry through a tunnel. Now that’s something we hadn’t seen before! We didn't really know what was going on or what to do, since it was all in German (but we're getting used to constantly being lost!), so Jeff just followed the car in front of him. Once we got going was actually kind of spooky, since it was really dark in the tunnel, and we were in there at least 15 minutes.

Anyway… We made it to our planned destination (the base of Stelvio Pass) only to find that there was only one hour left before the pass opened to cars – and we didn’t exactly feel energetic enough to try climbing the 5,000 ft in a single hour (!) Plus the weather was not looking so good. So, we decided to make the day into a “road trip” day (since after all, it’s quite exciting for us to have a car!) and see how many countries we could “tag” in one day. We ended up in Austria and picked a random town to stay in, using TT to find a random place to stay. Who knew it would work out to be a town with cycling routes leading in every direction from it!

We picked up a brochure at our quaint guesthouse, and it showed various elevation profiles for the different routes in the area… and guess which one we chose...

And here Jeff points out where we’re headed (up!):

The route is out-and-back since it ends at a glacier at the top, so there was not much traffic at all. It was 100k total – 50k up (almost 7k’ elev gain!) and a reward of 50k down at the end of the day. The weather on Sunday turned out to be PERfect (which was good since we were out riding for 7 hours!).

We had a slight delay for a goat-crossing (this has happened to me more than once here already!)...

There were 29 numbered switchbacks to get to the top of the glacier:

So this was yet another example for us that when things don’t go as planned, sometimes it can be even better in the end! Plus it might be even better since we hope to do the originally-planned pass this weekend with our friends from Atlanta who recommended it.

Definitely another example of some Hills Found!

For more pictures, you can click here to see the album.

Cheers,
Becky and Jeff

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Hills Found!

As the song goes, "Isn't it ironic?!" The Hillseekers live in Amsterdam, the most hill-deprived location in the world! Why on earth would they do such a thing?

Well, sometimes it's worth taking a big risk and choosing a really, really unusual path when chasing your dreams. We had a great time living in Amsterdam and we thoroughly enjoyed our immersion in the biking capital of the universe, but the mountains and new opportunities continued to beckon -- and finally, we found a path that would bring us to the perfect base camp. Two weeks ago, we arrived at our new home on the outskirts of Zürich, Switzerland, in the quaint village of Rüshlikon. We're far from settled (our apartment sits mostly empty, awaiting the arrival of furniture we ordered), but we've already been made to feel at home by the natural beauty of our surroundings. It didn't take long before we discovered forested mountain bike trails, panoramic running and walking trails, clear lake swims, and road cycling on mountain passes -- all within minutes of our driveway.

We think of our friends and family often -- wishing that you all could be here to share this with us -- ok, maybe not all at once, our flat is still Euro-sized -- but you get the idea! To share the experience, we extend an invitation to visit and also the series of photos included here to give you the first taste of what it's like to live in Switzerland.

Above is the view from our terrace of Rüshlikon, Lake Zürich, and the Alps. We actually use the clock on the church tower as our main house clock and enjoy the frequent bell concerts (video included below)!

It's all about bringing the outside to the inside ... this is the view from our main living area. The middle section of glass is actually a huge sliding window, which we leave open most of the time.

View from the kitchen -- the end of Lake Zürich and the city itself, is hardly visible, but present in that long, narrow window on the far-left.

View from our back terrace, where several cows live. And yes, you can hear an occasional moooo and the famous sound of cow bells. In the mornings, we hear a lone rooster. It's really bizarre living a six minute train ride from the city in a place where compared to the U.S., Porsches are as common as Honda Civics and Ferraris as Corvettes, all the while having livestock and apple orchards in your backyard.



Sights and Sounds ... from our terrace, the Sunday Evening Bells in Rüshlikon. Chimes sound every 15 minutes and at the top of various hours, we're treated to a little concert. The 7PM Sunday evening bells are the best -- when combined with the view, it's almost beyond reality. The bells toll nicely on weekdays at 7AM as well -- it can't be beat when heard on an early morning run in the forest. For those mornings when 7AM is a bit too early, we've learned that our bedroom door does a good job of allowing others to enjoy the bells while we enjoy sleeping in!

That's it for our introductory Swiss-living post. If you're ready to discover or re-discover the Swiss Alps, please come and see us!

Cheers,
Jeff and Becky