Making people smile: Running the Zürich Marathon with an Alphorn

Race Date: April 26, 2009
Road Marathon ... and Smile Day
A new Swiss tunnel has opened this year and it goes right under one of my favorite local mountains for biking and running, the Üetliberg. As a part of the tunnel opening ceremony, this year's Zurich Marathon started with a little underground jaunt. Once I heard about this I thought, hey -- I've never ran a marathon that starts with nearly 10KM of tunnel running, so why not give it a go? I signed up several months ago and at Becky's urging finally did a couple long runs to prep for the race. I've been in ski mode since November and aside from the Ötzi race have only been maintenance running since my last ultra toward the end of summer. The couple of long training runs I did for the Zurich Marathon went just fine -- which made me happy because it took several months for my ligament tear from an October running injury to heal. I've done lots of road marathons and really favor trail races now, so I decided that instead of running Zurich for a fast time, I'd run it to entertain people -- with a singular mission: make as many people smile as possible.

I also wanted to pay tribute to the Swiss for having such a wonderful country and allowing me the privilege of living in it. So, in Jeff-land, this all translated into me running the marathon while carrying a 3-meter long alphorn -- and not just running with it -- but playing mini-concerts for people along the way.

To make things interesting, I decided also run from home to the race start and another hour back home after the race -- for a nice 60km+ day of running. I arrived at the race start happy to be warmed up after an hour of running and bumped into an English mate, Mike, who was running the marathon dressed as the Pink Panther. Mike and I were apparently the only people stepping outside the box into creative/wacky-land as everyone else looked the part of serious runner. It's fun to shake things up. On the way to the race start I found a hill to play on and started what would be an endless series of mini-concerts. Every time the alphorn was spotted, people smiled and cheered -- awesome, it's working.

I fired up the crowd with mini concerts at the tunnel entrance and exits, in the tunnel, and for 4 1/2 hours along the race course. Highlights included passing the various musicians performing for the marathon (there's a great common brotherhood that works quite well only on the connection of music), playing a bit for a quartet of alphorn players performing for the race, and seeing the great reactions of the young and old when I would stop to play for them.

As for running with such an instrument, while it looks super heavy, it weighs only 1kg (2.2 pounds), so the weight wasn't much of a problem. Although, a few hours in and I could definitely feel it! My biggest concern was that I didn't hit anyone!

By the way, I've had this wonderful instrument for a year now and have run, biked, and hiked with it all over Switzerland. A carbon fiber alphorn is a great idea and is custom-made by a very interesting and entertaining gentleman in western (French-Speaking) Switzerland, (Roger Zanetti).My good friend Kate showed up on a bike to cheer and motivate me on a later section of the race, prompting a great observation from another friend's parent (who didn't know me): "I saw some poor chap running with an alphorn while some girl on a bike yelled at him." Ah, perfect -- that's about it -- her "yelling" was very helpful though, because whenever the crowds thinned out I would lose an audience to bring to smiles and my energy would begin to fade.

I had lots of conversations in Swiss German throughout the race -- well, semi-conversations, especially after I learned all the standard questions and practiced my responses in my broken Swiss dialect. People were always quite a bit shocked that I was 1) not Swiss 2) an American, and 3) can actually play the alphorn. They always smiled when we talked and that rocked.

It was a real joy on the finishing straight -- I stopped and played for the large crowd and then crossed the finish line with the alphorn high in the air (a celebration of Switzerland and this great mountain musical instrument, not me). A volunteer at the finish asked me to play for her before she'd give me water -- which I did of course -- and then I walked to cool down playing for people along the lake. One woman was insistent on paying me -- after refusing several times, I finally accepted the money when her gent suggested that it was to buy me a beer. Playing alphorn for a post-race beer -- well, ok.

After enjoying some post-race time with my friends, I got back on my feet and ran another hour home -- with the alphorn on my shoulder the whole time -- getting waves, honks, and smiles from passerbys. Yes, smiles -- it was free to give them and I got such warmth back in return. What a brilliant day!

p.s. Thanks for the photos Howard Brundrett (2nd, 6th, and last from the top)!

Ötzi Alpine Marathon

April 18, 2009 - South Tirol (Naturno, Italy) - Ötzi Alpine Marathon

42km & 3200M elevation gain: Mountain Biking, Trail Running, and Ski Mountaineering Race


I can clearly blame (or credit) Becky on this one as a couple months ago she sent me a link for a video of an alpine triathlon that she thought would be a perfect fit for capturing my imagination and creating yet another mini-obsession. Late one evening I decided to check out the video -- which went something like this ... starts with mountain bike racers (in what looks like the middle of summer) racing away from a picturesque village surrounded by vineyards, cycling up a mountain, shouldering their bikes in a steep technical section, and then racing into another village. Cool -- looks like a fun bike race -- but next you see them trail running up a gorgeous valley, around a lake, and up, up, up. Wow, great duathlon in a mountain setting. That's not all though. Next -- in one of the oddest triathlon transitions I've ever seen -- they run into the second transition zone and trade the trail running shoes for ski boots and Randonee (touring) skis. Next shot has them skiing uphill still wearing summer bike clothes -- now in a full-on winter setting right up to the top of a glacier. 10 seconds into the video and I was already hooked -- once I saw them ski racing up a mountain in bike clothes, I was as good as in South Tirol already.

Becky got in on the action too, quickly forming Team Abenteur (German for 'Adventure') with our friends Kate and Kat, while I decided that I wouldn't let a lack of specific training get in the way of going for the solo category. I managed to squeeze in a few ski tours to prep for the ski part, including my most awesome Swiss April Sunday training day ever (road cycling in the morning, kayaking over lunch, running, and then skiing up and down a mountain at sunset). We dusted our bikes off in early April and did a few rides to start the transition from ski season to bike season fitness. Breaking all the rules, I also switched equipment the day before the race as I decided to buy some used ski mountaineering racing skis as I was panicking a bit from checking out the photo gallery from last year's race and seeing everybody in super light race kit! I would be racing on these skis before ever trying them out - cool!

We enjoyed a very scenic 4 hour drive through the Engadine into Italy, passing Stelvio Pass (one of our favorite road bike climbs) and finally arriving in Naturno to find our hotel in the middle of a vineryard in full bloom. Just stunning.


The race briefing was in German and Italian (reminds me of the Blues Brothers line "we got both kinds -- country ... and western", so we caught only bits and pieces here and there, but missed the important stuff like "how do Jeff's skis make it to the start of the ski section and how do the relay members make it up the mountain?". We sorted this out in a mix of English and German with the race organizers after the meeting and enjoyed a free pre-race buffet of -- get this, and I'm not kidding -- local cheeses, sausage, a delicious soup, fruits and red wine. Ah -- racing in Italy -- gotta love it. No paper plates collapsing under the weight of a blob of spaghetti and adorned with stale bread, but nice cheeses, fruits, and endless bottles of wine. And yes, it was only after filling up on cheese, soup, and sausage and a few glasses of wine that I somehow still craved (and ate) a whole pizza with the girls at a local pizzeria and then (and only then) thought that I should take pre-race nutrition more seriously!

By the way, the race organizers were quite surprised to see our group representing the U.S. and U.K. in a race dominated by (well, pretty much solely attended by) Italians, Germans, Austrians, and Swiss.

Morning arrived and I managed to successfully drop off my ski and running gear at what I hoped was the place where it would all get transported for me. I did a little bike warm-up trying to shake off the nerves and settle a stomach that was quite unhappy with the previous evening's gorge-fest. I know better -- I really do -- or I should.

We were racing by 9AM -- during a lap through the village I got my legs spinning, felt ok, and decided to move up through the pack. At 9:05 I was nearly in the lead pack as we approached the start line again and then STOPPED. A full-on STOP. I looked around and quickly noticed that I was the only one surprised that we were coming to a complete stop five minutes into a race.


Ah, the joys of language and me not knowing enough of the one in the part of world I'm living -- apparently this was a warm-up lap. That five minute speech before the warm-up lap (in both German and Italian) probably went something like this: "alright folks, we're gonna do the warm-up lap that you all know about because you've done this before and know what you're doing, but see that poor chap with the stupid grin over there. You know, the one who laughs when we all do but doesn't have a clue why he's laughing or what we're saying. Wait, everyone laugh on 3. 1-2-3 ... ok, now you see him. So that guy will think we're racing during the warm-up lap, so let him pass you, it'll really boost his confidence which we'll later tear apart, and then watch his face when we all get back to the starting line and stop to await the real start."

I grin and bear it and start the 2nd time hoping that this is the real start and not another warm-up/laugh-at-Jeff lap. We skip the village tour part this time and head straight UP (within 2 minutes). Now that I've positioned myself in the front during the warm-up lap, I'm quickly passed by ... well seemingly everyone .. on the climb. I'm stunned at how fast these guys and gals are climbing right from the start -- well, the 2nd start. I also notice that most of them switched out normal mountain bike tires for narrow slicks or semi-slicks and most were on hard-tails, not full suspension rigs (like I was). Now I know -- and yes, I am blatantly throwing excuses out before I even finish telling the story! Anyway, we climb and climb for over an hour - the views rocked. This is wine country and the vines were all in full bloom. It was also a very hot climb -- felt like mid-summer.
I climbed my heart out, redlining the whole way and wishing I had actually trained on the bike for this race (as I knew I was near the back of the pack). The scenery couldn't be beat though.

I kept thinking "my god there are super fit people doing this race." The climb transitioned into a single-track section that involved carrying the bike up some non-rideable sections.

After the single-track, I tried to gain some time by pushing it on the descent, but suffered again on the last long climb to the first transition area.

After a tough 2 hours on the bike I wheeled into the transition zone (right past a cool bell tower) and was happy to hear Kat's cheers as she waited for Becky to hand off the baton in the relay. I managed a quick transition and ran off toward a steep slope to start the run segment.

During the run I was passed by the lead runners in the relay division. The relay teams started an hour behind the soloists and I was floored by how fast the lead runners blew past me. To my defense though, these guys just had to run 12KM and they were done for the day. I had to do the run and still ski up a mountain that looked really far away from the run start.

Aside from a really annoying quad cramp, the run felt fine and at just over an hour, wasn't a big deal. I did have to walk the steep parts though and definitely didn't feel like I had my summer legs. Before long I was running into T2 and searching for my skis. It was a very odd feeling to run out of that transition area in ski boots and biking clothes! I relaxed a bit when my never-tested new skis grabbed into the snow and climbed just fine. The ski course covered 10KM and 1200 meters (3700 feet) of elevation. I was again stunned at how fast so many people were skiing -- especially the relay skiers who zoomed past me like I had my skis on backwards! (come to think of it, maybe I did!).

I did perk up when one of the fast relay guys noticed I was a soloist (and suffering a bit) and said "bravissimo". Hearing the athlete-to-athlete motivation in a mix of languages is one of the wonderful things about living and racing in Europe. This and some other camaraderie banter fed me energy to keep sliding one ski boot in front of the other -- up, up, up.

It was quite a sight to see recreational downhill skiers and boarders zooming down the mountain beside the race course wearing their full winter gear. They stared at us like we were aliens -- cold aliens in funny clothes who didn't quite have the direction of travel on a ski slope figured out.

The higher on the mountain I climbed, the worst the weather got. What started as a sunny day turned into a foggy, snowy mist toward the top. Plus, I could feel the altitude (3000+ meters/9800+feet) making me light-headed and a dull headache. The photographer had camped out on a particularly steep and narrow section near the top. It was so steep that I could barely get my skis to stick. I had to take tiny steps, else I would slide backwards. It was grueling, but an awesome challenge at the same time. I started to get cold and snow was sticking to my arms, but soon I heard the finish line announcer. I pushed on and finally sighted the finish line. I vaguely remember them announcing my arrival in Italian. I saw Becky and Kat and felt a surge of energy that drove me to my first sprint finish on skis. I crossed the finish line and fell to my knees in exhaustion and an emotional release. 5 1/2 hours of hard effort -- in stunningly beautiful mountains -- both of which enrich my soul. Someone threw a blanket on me -- I looked up and saw smiles from Becky and Kat.

I grabbed a shower at the mountaintop hotel where the race finished and made it back outside (this time in proper winter clothes) just in time to cheer Kate on as she finished Team Abenteur's final leg of the relay. The girls did great and had a wonderful time taking on the profi Italians and Austrians. We caught the cable car down to a rockin' post-race party, enjoyed some food, and then drove back down the valley to warmth and a treat of gelado in Naturno.

The race was a super experience -- a perfect event for a multi-sport mountain lover. Now that I've tasted it, I can't wait to go back next year with some proper training under my belt and give it a go again. This time though, I know the trick about the warm-up lap and will be on the lookout for a fellow English speaker to give me some laughs this time!

Thanks for reading!

Jeff

Wrapping up a great year...

After an incredibly fun summer full of exploring all over Switzerland and northern Italy with visitors, it was time to take a break and have some "us" time, so on a beautiful weekend in October we took our first backpacking trip since we've been living in Europe.
The good thing about backpacking in Switzerland is you can pretty much guarantee you'll be alone once the sun starts going down, since the locals tend to not sleep outside (which I must admit is understandable since there are so many charming little hotels and guesthouses all around).
But to us nothing can beat having our little tent perched on the side of a hill with a gorgeous view and surrounded by nothing but nature. We enjoyed some wine-from-a-box (easier to carry in the backpack) in our REI Lexan wine glasses as we watched the moon rise over the mountain. Dinner was Raclette on our new candle-lit Swiss set. What a great evening in the backcountry!
Soon thereafter we travelled back to the U.S. for a visit - I (Buggie) went a little early and as luck would have it I got the chance to fit in a visit to our good Swiss friend there. Of course it was a very active visit including a cycling event through the horse country south of Gainesville. I brought the Alphorn from Switzerland and we used it to help cheer on other riders while taking a break...
I had no idea how beautiful the area near Gainesville is, especially with the moss hanging from the trees...and there actually were some hills there too - a nice surprise!
It was really great to see her and experience a small part of her new life there. We really miss you Martina! But we are happy that you are in such a good PhD program and look forward to your return to Switzerland when you're finished!

Next stop was the beautiful hills of north Georgia. I wonder if this is the first time a Swiss Alphorn has been heard here...
I always enjoy visiting my parents and their place in the mountains there. The house may be old and just has a few rooms, but it is very cozy. I think this sign says it all...
It was a very nice time together. That weekend, Gustav and I were lucky that a few friends could join us in the mountains for a bike ride...
Actually it was not just any bike ride -- It was the Fourth (almost-)Annual Gaptoberfest! That is: Biking in the Gaps + Oktoberfest in Helen = Great times with great friends :-)

After biking up and down a few of Georgia's famous hills (including our fave, Hawgpain!), we used up any breath we had leftover to share some of the sounds of the Swiss Alps with the Oktoberfest'ers...in the appropriate plaza no less...

It was a really fun time and I hope we can continue to keep the tradition of Gaptoberfest going on every year, as long as we all can continue to ride bikes (which will be forever as long as we can help it!).

Moving on... Every visit to the U.S. tends to include some shopping since you just can't get some "important" items in Switzerland (now you all know what to bring me next time you visit!):
We visited Sam's Club since Mom has a membership, and couldn't get over how huge the store is (you could fit about a thousand European stores in it). The aisles were wide, the selection was overwhelmingly vast... Even the playing cards were oversized!
So to keep the theme we did some post-shopping refreshing with some over-sized beverages :)
The next day was Halloween, which we couldn't wait to share with Gustav's sis and our neice and nephew. Plus it means getting dressed up and forcing strangers to give you candy - so much fun! (the Europeans don't know what they're missing)
As always we really enjoyed seeing everyone and getting to spend some time together. That includes our "furry child"- You'd never guess she is over 15 years old from this picture would you? Playing on the rocks by the river...
There just never seems to be enough time to do everything we want during our visits, but still we enjoyed the time that we did have with you all, and we're glad we can all stay in touch at least "virtually" when we're not in the same country.

Soon after we got back to Zurich, lots of "white stuff" started falling from the sky, and overnight it transformed the area into a winter wonderland... So our friend who is from northern Canada showed me the proper way to make a snowman (we didn't get quite so many chances to practice while growing up in TN!)...
Gustav and I decided at the last minute to take a long weekend trip to Vienna, to take advantage of the fact that we can do just that! It was our first experience on an overnight train, which was great (although a bit cramped!). We really enjoyed checking out the city and its incredibly beautiful buildings, as well as a couple friends we know living there. It was great timing with all the Christmas markets and decorations all around the city, really festive...
When we got back to Zurich it was holiday party time, and we hosted a few of those ourselves, including some Christmas caroling as well as some jazz improv by Jeff and one of the younger guests...
Soon thereafter we got hit by even MORE of that white stuff! It's so different from last year when it didn't snow here all winter (until once in March)...
The good thing was that the white stuff fell in the mountains to, so that meant one thing - It's time to SKI!! So our first day out on the sl0pes was with our good friend from Colorado...
One thing we still can't get over is how people here seem to really appreciate having a good meal. Even if you're at a tiny eatery on the ski slope, they still make your lunch special...
This lunch above is Alpen Macaroni, served with apple sauce, mmm-mmmmm. And topped off with a Carlsberg beer - Their advertising slogan always cracks us up: "Probably the best beer in the world" (well if they're not totally sure, at least they're honest about it!)

Suddenly Christmastime was upon us... We were lucky enough to receive an invitation from our Swiss friend to join her and her parents at their mountain chalet for the holiday. This was our first chance to experience a true Swiss Christmas! We had always heard about how real candles are lit on the Christmas tree, but it was even more amazing to experience it in person...
It was a really special time with our Swiss family who has "adopted" us. We all celebrated on Christmas Eve together with some Fondue Chinoise, which involves cooking your own thinly sliced meats in a buillion, and is the traditional Swiss meal for Christmas Eve.

After the Fondue, the Christmas gifts are opened (on Christmas Eve - typically a single gift per person, usually something hand-made, and specially wrapped with lots of care), then a story is read, sometimes songs are sung around the tree (as you make sure no needles are burning from the candles on it!), and then we all walk through the snow to the village church for the service that ends right at midnight. Christmas Day is then usually spent out in the snow and sunshine, walking or skiing with the family.

The view from the chalet is difficult to describe in words, it's so beautiful...
Thank you so much, unsere Schweizer Mami und Papi, for sharing your holiday time and traditions with us!!
After Christmas we met up with our "Abenteuer" (adventure) friends to do some more ski-touring (better described in our opinion as "ski mountaineering", since after all it usually involves climbing to the top of a mountain, or sometimes more than one, and often has its epic nail-biting moments!). This trip ended up being a great adventure without any problems (nor any helicopter rescues).
We took advantage of the extra holidays to do some version of skiing every day -- ski-touring, skate-skiing, alpine skiing... No matter what the activity, it is always worth travelling the 45 minutes or so from Zurich to the mountains to enjoy the wunderschön views and sunshine...
We especially appreciate the sunshine since it tends to be very foggy in Zurich this time of year. Just another reason to get out and enjoy the beautiful mountains...

It has been a great year. We really enjoyed getting to share some of our life in Switzerland with you, either in person for those of you who came to visit, or at least on here "virtually".

We hope you all had a good year as well, and we wish you all a very
Happy and Healthy New Year!!!


Cheers,
Buggie and Gustav